2004, USA/France
Adventure, Documentary
It is fitting that the director of Dogtown and Z-Boys, the skateboarding documentary anthem, would be drawn to the history of surfing. After all, without surfing there would be no skateboarding. Stacy Peralta found himself intrigued by the surfers who have propelled the sport into what it is today -- the ultimate challenge not to tame but to respectfully coexist with nature in its most crushing form.
This documentary focuses on three surfing gods and thus three distinct surfing eras. A fantastic soundtrack follows the chronology of the movie, ranging from the obvious Dick Dale to the rougher edges of Soundgarden (no Beach Boys in the bunch). In introducing tales with no moving film, pictures were split to create wonderful 3-D images to great effect. The style of the film is often a play on old history filmstrips, with a rock-n'-roll handle.
As California boys began to seek out Hawaiian waves and a penniless beach lifestyle, Greg Noll stood out with his outrageous antics and flash. He attracted attention to himself and thus his board business, but never lost respect for the Waimea Bay waves he rode every day. Much as sailors address their sea vessels as a woman to revere, Noll felt the waves shared the love he felt for them -- keeping him in line when he went over the top, and allowing him to surf well when he pulled in the bravado. Credited with riding the tallest wave ever, Noll pushed the boundaries of what was previously thought possible.
Two decades later, a massive wave was discovered outside of San Francisco. Surprisingly, no one would believe it existed. For 15 years Jeff Clark diligently surfed this beast alone, paddling for 45 minutes to reach the great break in frigid waters. When the surfing community finally woke up to realize they had a wave on the continental coast greater than the holy Waimea, there was no stopping the stream of worshippers -- even some from Hawaii. Though Clark invited newcomers, he also represents the mental solitude involved in surfing. These surfers discuss an almost-religious focus and commitment to learning how to flow with the waves. There is no discussion of conquering nature, but always of respecting and appreciating these bodies of water that provide them with meaning to life. They face the challenge of risking their lives in order to lead the fullest existence possible.
In the final chapter, Laird Hamilton represents the future of surfing. As a child he handpicked his step-dad, a great surfer in his own right; a towheaded boy in Hawaii who would go on to advance tow-in surfing to amazing feats. It is obvious that Hamilton truly understands giant waves and has the ability to immediately calculate how to ride them. Surf heroes of previous generations appear to hold him in the highest regards for his unquestionable abilities and surfers of his own generation respect him for what he was brought to the sport. Through him is the culmination of restrained showmanship, the appreciation for help by his fellow surfers, and the interior battles to find a Zen-like focus in order to get into the mind of the wave.
What is amazing is that this sport involves a creature that is constantly evolving. Mountains remain with set paths and markers. Waves may have a consistent personality and risk, but depending on the weather and the erosion of the reef below, their predictability is uncertain. Surfers respectfully personify each wave area, and as with people, they are not guaranteed to act the same every day. From this rises a communication between ocean and wave rider, and one that they take seriously to heart. With the possibility of death on the line they cannot whisper, but must be strong in their mental and physical convictions.
This is a fantastic tribute to a sport that is more like a religion. The truly devoted are not there to show off, but are there because they are drawn to it spiritually. Great extras on this disk include two commentary tracks: the first by the director and editor, and the second by the co-writer (editor Sam George of Surfer Magazine) and surfers. Also included is a making of feature, a Fuel TV special about the premiere, deleted scenes that elaborate on surviving scenes, a soundtrack promo and Quicksilver ad, and previews for old movies that were mentioned and for new ones somewhat related.